Bolsena

The Bolsena Lake (Lago di Bolsena) is the 5th largest in Italy, covering an area of 114 km2. It is easily recognized from above when flying towards Fiumicino due to the presence of two islands.

The town itself is an exceptionally charming medieval settlement with narrow streets leading up to the castle “La Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara”. The history of the castle goes back to 1156 when Pope Adrian IV ordered towns to protect themselves against barbarians. For that purpose, the first fortification was built, to be further reinforced and extended by Count Monaldeschi in 1295. Since then, it has served as fortress, residence, prison, storage, been burnt and rebuilt, and today it houses a museum with artefacts from the surrounding area and aquariums with fish from the lake. The view from the top of the ramparts is stunning.

The Basilica of Santa Christina is a Roman Catholic basilica church best known for being the site of a Eucharistic Miracle in 1263 (immortalised by Raphael’s painting “The Mass at Bolsena” in the Vatican Palace).

The Basilica is also the burial place of the martyr Santa Christina. First her father, and after his death the following Governor, tried to punish her for being a christian, but attempts to kill her by fire, snakes, and drowning all failed. When she was thrown in the lake, a stone brought her to the surface (!) and she left her footprints on the stone for posterity (!!). The stone with the footprints can be seen in a side chapel in the Basilica. On her name day, 24 July, processions and passion displays commemorate her life and death.

There are several bars, pizzerias, and restaurants in Bolsena, but my number one favourite (in fact, one of my two favourite restaurants in Italy) is the “Trattoria del Moro”.